[97] pp. plus a few unused leaves at end. Handwritten in pencil in lined paper. 7¼x4½, flexible sheep with ink notation on front cover, "Read Carefully."
Very important diary kept by Oregon pioneer William H. Gray during a one-month trip by steamer up the coast of Oregon and British Columbia to Sitka, Alaska, just purchased from the Russians the preceding year. William Henry Gray (1810-1889), was an early settler in the Northwest who came to the Oregon Country as a lay member of the Spalding-Whitman missionary group, but resigned his position and came to the Salem area in 1842 to work at the Oregon Institute. He was the author of A History of Oregon, 1792-1849, published in 1870. Though the reasons for his trip to Alaska are not given, he is a keen observer, and a talented writer.
After embarking at Portland, Oregon, On July 1st, Gray proceeds northward along the coast of Canada, “…To the north and east spreads out Queen Sharlots Sound, a magnificent sheet of water rendered grand and sublime by bold islands and the bold high ranges of the mountains of British (which should be) American Columbia – the American traveler can scarcely restrain the thought, what a shame that this magnificent group of islands with this rich country should have been given to a people or nation incapable of producing a prosperous colony while under its rule…”
By July 10th they were about to enter Alaska waters, “At half past 7, passed in sight of the Fort, which is situated upon a point or strip of comparative level land some eight miles below the entrance to Portland Inlet which is claimed to be the northern boundary of British Columbia…” Gray next sighted the embryonic Fort Tongass, the southernmost point of Alaska, “…we discovered a lighter 2 boats and on shore a number of white tents and one house and upon a sound mound near the edge of the water a flag staff at the foot of which we were told was a battery of canon…” Later, a few officers from the newly established fort came aboard the steamer, “…from the conversation between the purser of our ship and the officers of the Fort in prospect, we learned that the officers were not particularly discontented with their lonely island home, though they know but little of the affairs in Uncle Sam’s political world – from some of the men we learned that they wished the man who bought the country had to come there and stay…”
The next day, as they proceeded north “between Tongass Sound and Clarence Straight we passed a canoe manned by five well dressed Indians who were apparently on a trading expedition. They crossed the channel and lay too till we came up and paddled to come along side – our expedition not being for Indian trade or barter we kept our course – they soon gave up the chase…” On July 13th they reached “the town of Sitka, or New Archangel… at about 6, awoke its peacefully slumbering inhabitants with a notice of our arrival. Ran up in front of the fort or house near which was a staff and American colors spread to the breeze – the former government house.” He describes at some length the harbor, the town (“principally built from solid wood logs from 8 to 10, & 12 inches thick… The people consist of American soldiers principally… about 25 Americans probably 50 Russians the balance of half native and Indians the Indian town being built of logs and split lumber has quite the appearance of a town of some 35 huts or habitations… As to the cleanliness of the Indian or half breed population no one can venture a favorable statement. The better or more intelligent appearing of the class of Russians appear more cleanly – while the extreme of German politeness is to be seen in the few aristocratic Russians still in the place…” Subsequent observations include a Greek [i.e. Russian?] Orthodox wedding; the quarters of the soldiers; the customs house; the possible self-government of American citizens much like early Oregon (Gray considered it an entirely different situation); climate; vegetation; crops; and much more, with occasional mention of gold. Finally at the end of July, Gray heads back, his steamer arriving at Astoria on July 30th.